The main tourist attraction of Castile-La Mancha is historic Toledo. Muslims, Christians and Jews turned this city into one large museum of architecture. Cuenca is another attractive city, famous for its Hanging Houses perched atop a crag. Cuenca Cathedral is the oldest Gothic building in Spain. In Castile-La Mancha you are always near a castle. The castles of Sigüenza and Belmonte are among the most impressive. La Mancha was immortalized by Cervantes in his book ‘Don Quixote’. Places that remind you of Don Quixote are Consuegra, El Toboso and Campo de Criptana.
Castile-La Mancha
- General
- History
- Top locations
- Food and drink
- Fiestas in Castile-La Mancha
- Transport
Castile-La Mancha / Source: Mutxamel, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA-4.0)
General
Castile-La Mancha is one of the seventeen autonomous regions of Spain and is located in the southeast of the country. The region has an area of 79,462 km² and has more than 2 million inhabitants (2016). The capital is Toledo with more than 83,000 inhabitants (2016). Castile-La Mancha borders the regions of Madrid and Castile-León to the north. Further clockwise, the region borders Aragon, Valencia, Murcia, Andalusia and Extremadura. The most important river is the Tajo (Tajo), which divides the region in the north. The La Mancha region is located in the southeast of Castile-La Mancha. The region is divided into the provinces of Guadalajara, Cuenca, Toledo, Albacete and Ciudad Real. These provinces have the same name as their capital.
Castile-La Mancha has a rich artistic and monumental heritage. There are two places on the UNESCO World Heritage List: the Old Town of Toledo and the Old Town of Cuenca. In addition, there are many locations that have an impressive historical and cultural heritage, such as the many castles in the region. The La Mancha region is known for the adventures of Don Quixote. The ‘Ruta de Don Quijote’, a cultural tour, takes you past places associated with this famous knight.
History
The earliest period
Archaeological finds show that people have been living in Castile-La Mancha for at least 300,000 years. The first inhabitant was Homo erectus, which was overshadowed by Homo sapiens about 40,000 years ago. From about 1200 B.C. the Celts from the north settled in the region. They mixed with the indigenous Iberian peoples. The tribes that emerged from this were called the Celtiberians. In the 2nd century B.C. the Celtiberians were defeated by the Romans. The Romans founded new settlements and occupied Celtiberian settlements. Toledo, in central Spain, was transformed into a fortified city. A fortress was built on the site of the current Alcázar. The fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century AD handed Castile-La Mancha over to the Visigoths.
Castile-La Mancha, and Toledo in particular, is inextricably linked to the history of the Visigoths. The Visigoths were a Germanic people from southern Sweden. In the 6th century they occupied all of Spain and Toledo became the capital of the Visigothic empire. At the end of the 6th century the Visigoths adopted the Catholic faith. The unity of the empire was then threatened by the power of the nobility, supported by the church. The Visigoths continued to behave as occupiers and made few attempts at assimilation with the Celtiberians. When Moorish armies crossed the Strait of Gibraltar in 711, they encountered little resistance from the politically weakened Visigothic empire.
The Moorish and Christian Castile-La Mancha
From 711, Castile-La Mancha was occupied by the Moors and became part of the Caliphate of Córdoba. Several Visigoths from Castile-La Mancha and the rest of Spain fled to northern Spain with their supporters. Northern Spain was not occupied by the Moors. Christian kingdoms arose here from the beginning of the 8th century. These kingdoms expanded south and reconquered areas from the Moors. One of those kingdoms was Castile. Ferdinand I, the first king of Castile, began a series of wars in the 11th century. He conquered part of the area that would later become Castilla la Nueva. In 1032 the Caliphate of Córdoba disintegrated into several states, taifas . These taifas were deeply divided among themselves, which made them vulnerable to the Christian kingdoms that wanted to defeat the Moors. Toledo was one of the Taifas and was conquered by Alfonso VI of Castile in 1085. Two years later it became the capital of the Kingdom of Castile. It was not until the 12th century that Castile was able to conquer other important cities. In 1177, the city of Cuenca and the region of La Mancha were recaptured from the Moors. The city of Alarcón followed in 1184. At the beginning of the 13th century, the Moors were expelled from the entire region. Castile-La Mancha was added to the Kingdom of Castile.
The 13th to the 16th century
After the reconquest of Castile-La Mancha from the Moors, a new Castile was created. Castile-La Mancha was known as Castilla la Nueva (New Castile), because it had to be completely repopulated after the reconquest. The new residents came mainly from Spain itself, but also from France, Italy and England. They received their land from Military Monastery Orders. Land was donated to these orders on a large scale as a thank you for the services rendered.
Between 1087 and 1561 Toledo was the capital of the Kingdom of Castile. In 1561, however, Madrid became the capital of the Kingdom of Castile, as well as the capital of Spain. Madrid and its surroundings were also part of Castile since the reconquest from the Moors. Toledo’s heyday came to an end and the city was left only the religious capital of the country.
The 17th to the 19th century
At the beginning of the 17th century, the population of Castile-La Mancha continued to increase and new towns and municipalities were founded. The economy continued to improve, partly due to increasing agricultural production. This positive development came to an end at the end of the 17th century. A plague epidemic and also a famine triggered a flow of emigration to other areas in Spain.
In the 18th century, economic reforms were implemented that gave new impetus to trade and agriculture. The arrival of viticulture in the region was especially beneficial for agriculture. Due to the economic recovery, the number of inhabitants also increased again. In 1785 a territorial arrangement took place. Castile-La Mancha was subdivided into the provinces of Guadalajara, Cuenca, Toledo and La Mancha.
In 1833, Castile-La Mancha was again subdivided into provinces. The province of La Mancha was replaced by the province of Ciudad Real. A new province was also added, Albacete. With this provincial division, Castile-La Mancha received its current form and name.
The 20th century
During the Civil War (1936-1939), Castile-La Mancha was loyal to the republicans. Fierce fighting took place in Guadalajara between the republicans and Franco’s troops. There was also fighting in Toledo. The Alcázar was captured by Franco’s troops who then endured a 68-day republican siege.
At the end of the 1970s, a start was made on granting autonomy to various Spanish regions. In 1979, the Ente Pre-autonómico, a pre-autonomy, was established for Castile-La Mancha. In 1982, Castile-La Mancha became an autonomous region. In 1983, Toledo was chosen as the capital of the region.
Top locations
Toledo
The historic center of Toledo is beautifully situated on a hill above the Tagus River. The Romans built a fortress on the site of the current Alcázar. In the 6th century, Toledo became the capital of the Visigothic empire. Christians, Muslims and Jews have left their mark on the architecture and culture in Toledo.
The Cathedral of Toledo / Source: Rjhuttondfw, Flickr (CC BY-2.0) The Catedral Primada is located in the middle of the old center . The cathedral was built between 1227 and 1493. The lengthy construction period explains the different styles: from French Gothic to Spanish Mudejar and Plateresque elements. Inside, the interior consists of a wealth of art treasures. The Choir (Capilla Mayor) contains a large 16th century sculpted and polychrome painted reredos. In the Coro (15th and 16th centuries) you can admire beautiful choir stalls from the Spanish Gothic. In the Sala Capitular (Chapter House) you can see 16th-century murals. The chapter house also has a beautiful polychrome Mudejar ceiling (16th century). The Sacristía (Sacristy) contains many precious paintings. The most famous painting is The Unclothing of Christ (1579) by El Greco. There is also work by Titian, Van Dijck, Goya and Morales. In the Treasury (Capilla de San Juan) is the 16th-century Gothic monstrance, which is more than 3 m high. On the day of the Corpus Christi celebration, it is carried around the streets of the city.
In the east of the center is the Alcázar . The fortified palace of Charles V stands on the site of ancient Roman, Visigothic and Moorish castles. In 1936, the Alcázar was almost completely destroyed when the Nationalists endured a 68-day republican siege. It was then restored in the old style. The Alcázar also houses the Museo del Ejército , which used to be in Madrid. This army museum exhibits 6,500 objects and also pays attention to the events of 1936. To the west of the center is the Sinagoga del Tránsito . This former synagogue was built in the 14th century. In 1492 it was converted into a church. The synagogue has a rich Mudejar interior. The upper part of the walls and the chancel have beautiful Mudejar plasterwork. Here Islamic, Gothic and Hebrew geometric motifs form a harmonious combination. Above this is a beautiful ceiling with carvings of cedar wood. The Museo Sefardí is located in a side room . Here, Toledo’s rich Jewish past is central. The objects date from both before and after the expulsion of the Jews from Spain at the end of the 15th century. In the north of the center is the Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz . This mosque was built in 999. With the large mezquita of Córdoba, this is the only remaining mosque from the time of the Caliphate. Just like in the mosque of Córdoba, the rows of arches are supported by decorated columns. In the 12th century the mosque was transformed into a church, under the name Cristo de la Luz.
Cuenca
Cuenca is spectacularly situated on top of a rock plateau between the Júcar and its tributary the Huécar. The picturesque old center is remarkably well preserved. The biggest attraction is the cathedral. Also worth seeing are the Hanging Houses, which have been converted into a museum.
In the old center is the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de Gracia . This cathedral is the oldest Gothic building in Spain. The facade of the cathedral was rebuilt after the tower on the north side collapsed in 1902. The construction of a new tower was never carried out. The original construction of the cathedral began in 1183. The three naves and the Torre del Ángel were completed in the 13th century. They show Anglo-Norman influences. New decorations were added during the Renaissance. The 15th century choir is closed by an elegant fence (16th century) in the style between Gothic and Renaissance. The doorway of the chapter house (16th century) is designed in Plateresque style, with richly carved walnut panels. In the 20th century, stained glass windows were installed in the cathedral. In 2012, the cloister (16th century) was restored.
The famous Hanging Houses of Cuenca / Source: Tomás Fano, Flickr (CC BY-SA-2.0) To the right of the cathedral are houses that seem to balance on the edge of the ravine through which the Huécar flows. These Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) have made Cuenca famous. They were built in the 14th century as an extension of the city above the ravine. There used to be so many of them that they surrounded the entire city. However, they were abandoned and fell into disrepair. Only three remain, which were restored in the 1930s. Now it houses the Museo de Arte Abstracto Español . The design of this museum is unique due to the structure of the Hanging Houses. The art objects on display attract at least as much attention. The artists whose works are exhibited are part of the Generación Abstracta from the 1960s. You will see work by Zóbel, Tàpies, Chillida, Torner, Rueda and others. Between the Hanging Houses and the cathedral is the Museo Arqueológico de Cuenca . This museum is located in the 14th-century Casa del Curato. The collection mainly consists of archaeological finds from prehistoric and Roman times. The museum also contains collections in the fields of visual arts, folklore and regional history.
Siguenza
Sigüenza is built on a hillside. The city is dominated by the castle on top of the hill. Downstairs, in the center, the cathedral is the main attraction.
The statue of El Doncel in the cathedral / Source: Santiagolopezpastor, Flickr (CC BY-ND-2.0) Adjacent to the Plaza Mayor is the Catedral . Construction of the cathedral started in the 12th century, in early Gothic style. Construction was completed in the 15th century, at the end of the Gothic period. The ambulatory and the cloister are of a later date. The interior is more important, especially because of the many works of art on display. The parsonage is closed by a beautiful 17th-century fence with an alabaster pulpit on either side. In a chapel in the ambulatory there is a wooden statue of Christ dating from the 16th century. The Capilla de Santa Librada contains the altar of Santa Librada (16th century). It contains painted panels depicting the life of the martyr, Saint Librada. The chapel also contains the 16th-century grave of the Portuguese bishop Dom Fadrique. It is made in Plateresque style and has lavish decoration. The sacristy has a beautiful ceiling, a work by the artist Covarrubias. It is decorated with numerous portraits and roses, with images of angels in between. In the Capilla del Doncel , in the right arm of the cross, is the tomb of El Doncel. El Doncel was a young squire of Queen Isabella, who died during a siege in 1486. The image of the boy reading is astonishingly realistic. In the left cross arm is the 16th-century Gothic Puerta del Pórfido . This gate leads to the cloister . Around the 16th-century Gothic cloister are chapels with doors and Plateresque style. Books, manuscripts and a collection of 17th-century Flemish tapestries are exhibited
in the chapter house . Opposite the cathedral is the Museo Diocesano de Arte Antiguo . This museum has an extensive collection of church art, including a 14th-century alabaster statue of Mary. Other important objects include a Pieta attributed to Morales and the Immaculate Conception of Zurbarán.
Above Sigüenza, on a hill, stands the Castillo . This castle was built by the Moors in the 8th century, on the remains of a Roman fort. The castle is now a luxury parador.
Ruta de Don Quijote
La Mancha, with its windmills and medieval castles, was immortalized by Cervantes in the heroic adventures of Don Quixote. The Don Quixote route allows you to follow in the footsteps of the eternal knight-errant, who was born more than 400 years ago.
The windmills of Consuegra / Source: Pavlemadrid, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-2.5) Above the village of Consuegra there are eleven windmills and a restored castle. The castle and one mill can be visited. Little is known about the bond between Cervantes and Consuegra. But on the house at number 11 of Plaza San Juan there is a 16th century shield with the coat of arms of a certain Cervantes family. Puerto Lápice was the first place Don Quixote visited. He was ‘knighted’ here in an inn that he thought was a castle. The 17th century inn is now completely dedicated to the knight-errant. The windmills that Don Quixote attacked are said to be in Campo de Criptana . There are ten remaining windmills here of the once 32 in the village. Three 16th-century mills are still working, one of which houses the tourist office. The village of El Toboso is the attraction for Cervantes enthusiasts. Dulcinea, Don Quixote’s imaginary lover, is said to have lived here. The Museo-Casa de Dulcinea has been restored to its 16th century state. Doña Ana Martínez, after whom Dulcinea is said to have been modeled, lived in the house. Near the house is the Centro Cervantino . It houses the tourist office and a small museum dedicated to Cervantes. It has a large collection of editions of Don Quixote . The village of Belmonte has nothing to do with Don Quixote, but is characteristic of La Mancha. The main attraction is the Castillo . The 15th-century castle is one of the best preserved in the region. Inside you will see beautiful ceilings with wood carvings and Mudejar plasterwork. Cervantes was imprisoned in the village of Argamasilla de Alba . While still working as a tax collector, he was imprisoned for some time for fraud. His cell can still be viewed. An important town in Don Quixote is Villanueva de los Infantes . Don Quixote is said to have lived here when he started his journey and where he also died after his adventures.
The famous queso manchego / Source: Zerohund, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA-3.0)
Food and drink
In the cuisine of Castile-La Mancha, meat is the most used ingredient. In most cases this is small game, such as rabbit and partridge. Vegetables are also an important ingredient, especially peppers, tomatoes and onions. Cheese is also produced in Castile-La Mancha, the best cheese in Spain comes from here. The region is also known for its wines, the La Mancha wine region is the largest contiguous wine region in the world.
A classic main dish from the region is gazpacho Manchego . This dish is completely different from the famous dish from Andalusia. Here it is a stew with rabbit, chicken, unleavened cake bread, tomatoes, peppers, onions, mushrooms and garlic. The chicken can be replaced by partridge, quail or pigeon. Another regional specialty is pisto manchego (vegetable dish with potatoes, ham or bacon, tomatoes, peppers, onions and courgettes).
Castile-La Mancha has a number of products with the designation DO (Denominacíon de Origen). The DO designation guarantees the origin and quality of a product. In the region there is one type of cheese with the designation DO, the queso manchego . This cheese is the most famous of all Spanish cheeses. The cheese is made from milk from sheep of the manchega breed . It is a pressed cheese with a slightly spicy and salty taste. There are many varieties and the ripening period varies from 60 days to two years.
Wine is also produced in Castile-La Mancha. There are five wine regions in the region with the designation DO. These are La Mancha , Valdepeñas , Almansa , Méntrida and Mondéjar . La Mancha is the largest contiguous wine region in the world. Quite ordinary red and white wines come from here. The best wines of Castile-La Mancha come from Valdepeñas . This wine region produces quality red wines, white wines and rosés. The red wine matured in oak barrels is of excellent quality. Almansa produces powerful red wines and fairly ordinary white wines and rosés. Méntrida produces robust red wines and regular white wines and rosés. Regular red wines and white wines come
from Mondéjar .
Fiestas in Castile-La Mancha
Castile-La Mancha has a vibrant, colorful culture. This is reflected in the numerous fiestas (parties). The celebrations often have a religious background, sometimes with pagan origins. They are often accompanied by processions, food and drinks, music, dancing and other attractions.
The devils during the procession with Saint Blasius / Source: Emiliano García-Page Sánchez, Flickr (CC BY-SA-2.0) La Endiablada
The festival La Endiablada is held every year in Almonacid del Marquesado, near Cuenca. The festivities take place on February 1, 2, 3 and 4, in honor of the Virgen de la Candelaria (Candlemas) and St. Blasius. Men dressed as devils, with cowbells on their backs, walk through the streets of the village. They dance during processions next to the floats with the statues of the two saints. While dancing, they let their bells ring loudly and incessantly.
La Endiablada probably has its origins in Celtic times. The current celebration is probably based on a legend about the Virgen de la Candelaria. After the birth of Jesus, Mary had to present her child in a temple. But because she had no husband to father her child, she was ashamed to come to the temple. She came to the temple anyway. Attention was diverted from her by men dressed as devils, ringing their cowbells. La Endiablada may also be based on an event in the late Middle Ages. A shepherd from Almonacid del Marquesado found the buried statue of Saint Blaise in the town of Majanares. This town was located between Almonacid and Puebla de Almenara. The people from Puebla de Almenara were unable to excavate the statue. Almonacid succeeded and the statue has been part of this town ever since. The shepherds were overjoyed by this event that they rang their cowbells on their backs. They washed the image of the saint, something that is remembered every year on February 2.
The party starts on February 1. The devils gather in the evening in the house of their leader. Then they go to the mayor’s house and ask permission to start the party. The devils then go to the parish church to begin their tour through the city. They make the unmistakable sound of cowbells, which will be heard in the city in the coming days. The next day, February 2, is largely dedicated to the Virgen de la Candelaria. The devils go to church first. Then the procession begins, the highlight of the day. The image of the Virgin is carried through the streets, accompanied by the devils who dance, jump and make noise. The procession is also accompanied by dancers and musicians. After the procession, a mass takes place and the devils return to the church. Another highlight of the day is the washing of the statue of Saint Blaise. On February 3, St. Blasius takes center stage. This day is almost the same as the day before. The procession in honor of Saint Blasius is the same as that of the Candelaria. Only the devils now wear the miter of Saint Blaise, instead of their headdress with flowers of the Virgin. On February 4, the devils are no longer present. There will be dancing and music that day. All this is in great contrast to the noise and fury of the devils.
Corpus Christi Toledo
Toledo has one of the oldest and most important Corpus Christi celebrations in Spain. The festival has been celebrated since the 15th century. The Corpus Christi celebration takes place on the Thursday 60 days after Easter Sunday, in May or June. The highlight is the procession with the enormous monstrance from the cathedral.
A few weeks before the procession, the route is decorated with flowers, streamers and wreaths. Before the party, balconies, windows and walls are decorated with antique pennants and 17th-century tapestries. The square in front of the cathedral is also covered with flowers and fragrant herbs. The Corpus Christi celebration is presided over by the Archbishop of Toledo, Spain’s most important primate. The highlight of the day is the procession. The enormous monstrance is taken from the cathedral’s treasury and carried through the streets of the city. The procession is followed by a long line of believers, religious brotherhoods and orders. The scents, colors and songs create a mystical, festive atmosphere.
The TALGO intercity train on the Madrid-Guadalajara route / Source: Fototrenes, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA-2.0)
Transport
Castile-La Mancha has no international airport and is not directly accessible by plane from the Netherlands. Madrid airport is the best destination for international air traffic. Castile-La Mancha is easily accessible from Madrid by train, bus or car.
All train stations in the region are on lines to and from Madrid. From Madrid there is an AVE high-speed train to Toledo and Cuenca. The TALGO intercity trains run to Ciudad Real, Albacete and Guadalajara. RENFE trains run to Campo de Criptana and Sigüenza. From March to November there is also a ‘medieval’ train from Madrid to Sigüenza, the Tren medieval a Sigüenza . The return ticket includes a guided visit to the city.
Castile-La Mancha also has good bus connections. The following places have (as of 2018) a bus station: Toledo, Cuenca, Sigüenza, Consuegra, Campo de Criptana and Belmonte. Toledo, Cuenca and Sigüenza can also be reached by bus from Madrid.
The car is the most practical means of transport to explore the region. Castile-La Mancha can be reached from Madrid by an extensive network of highways. Toledo, Consuegra, Albacete and Ciudad Real can be reached by highway. The other places in the region can be reached by main roads, secondary roads and tourist routes.
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